But the theory about the flow regime of the wave boundary layer, the wave friction factor, the bed shear stress and the initiation of sediment motion has not developed very well.
而且波浪是海岸地区一个非常重要的海洋水动力因素，波浪作用下底部边界层的流态、底摩阻系数、床面剪应力和泥沙起动的理论还不成熟。
But the theory about the flow regime of the wave boundary layer, the wave friction factor, the bed shear stress and the initiation of sediment motion has not developed very well.
而且波浪是海岸地区一个非常重要的海洋水动力因素，波浪作用下底部边界层的流态、底摩阻系数、床面剪应力和泥沙起动的理论还不成熟。
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