Grape Gumbo has a noisy bistro feel to it you can sit at the bar and watch the chef cook if you want to avoid the cigarette smoke in the main section.

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Brand new wine bar Verjus takes the same approach -- a cosy space where you can sit at the bar and order small plates to accompany a concise and well-chosen wine list.

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When you can sit at the bar and jig your line right in the hole there, they like that.

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You can also sit at the sushi bar or a couple of long high kitchen tables overlooking the cooking, as well as the private teppanyaki room.

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It is often said that it is only the well-heeled who can holiday in St Tropez, but sit in a bar in the port here for just five minutes and you will soon see it is really the high-heeled who frequent this place.

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