Cheng admires a carbonized-steel wok with a weighty magnolia wood handle and explains the difference between Shanghainese and Cantonese woks (the Shanghainese are deeper and rounder).

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If using a wok with metal handles, be sure to use pot holders when touching the handles.

NPR: Capturing the Elusive 'Breath of a Wok'

Then stir-fry the meat with a spatula 10 to 15 seconds, spread the meat again in the wok and let it sear for 30 seconds more, and then continue stir-frying.

NPR: Capturing the Elusive 'Breath of a Wok'

Instead of a butane burner or brazier filled with charcoal, you can use a more convenient (and much easier to find) electric frying pan or wok.

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