The paper, which is turned into wrapping paper, wine bags, journals and Christmas ornaments, is thick, textured and occasionally flecked with small stones and hair-like fibers because 70% of what an elephant eats can pass through its body undigested.

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Today, Maria serves the polenta with a thick, savoury rabbit stew and sliced beef in red wine.

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At the same time, the wine's earthiness gives it a lustiness that also would go well with thick veal chops smothered in a sauce of tomatoes, basil, black olives and lemon zest.

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