Instead of making white wine out of it, Yankees are fermenting pinot meunier on the skins and making red table wine, as they do with merlot, cabernet and syrah.

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This lush wine is made only in the best years from very ripe Syrah.

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In fact, according to a prominent wine economist, there is even a "world-class" Syrah vineyard in southern New Jersey, next to Jon Bon Jovi's house.

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Moreover, if the wine tasted good for the price point, Gallo probably assumed that at least some merlot and syrah were blended in (small-percentage additions such as these are standard practice, and there are legal limits that vary by country of origin).

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While its 2009 Riesling has the distinct whiff of chalk, the wine is an age away in terms of taste and grape variety from the thrilling reds made from Syrah that for more than 200 years sold around the world, helping shape the family business: M.

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