Surrounded by wild flowers and walnut trees and with the giant spurs of the Kandil mountains as a backdrop, they pass round plates heaving with figs and grapes, and clap along to Kurdish folk songs crackling out from their radio.

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Welsh Abergavenny for its recently Michelin-starred Walnut Tree and Black Mountains lamb, and Manchester-neighbour Ramsbottom for its wild garlic and South Indian cuisine.

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