She listened, told me she could see how stressed I was, and then, even though the next day was my morning with the kids, she offered to wake up with them at 6 a.m. while I slept a little later.

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At home, the puppy, Rose, played with balls, struggled with the stairs, and slept behind my knees while I watched in adoration.

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Three hours later, somewhere over Iowa or Indiana or some other equally flat, patchwork landscape, while my wife slept and my kids watched a movie they'd never be allowed to see at home, I hauled my laptop out and fired it up.

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