For 96 miles we wended our way through rolling hills covered with kelly-green acacia, finally arriving at Monkey Mia, a strip of white-sand beach where bottle-nosed dolphins come every morning to beg for fish.

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The road curved along the back side of the Johnson Space Center, an expanse of empty ground bordered by leafless winter trees, where deer patrolled the fence line and joggers wended in and out of sight, following the exercise trail through a thin screen of forest.

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