They then calculate food-price indices that are skewed towards calorie-dense foods (so a change in the price of butter has more impact than a change in the price of vegetables).

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However, the day of the blackmarket people is ending, because there are great quantities of butter, meat, and vegetables in Normandy, Brittany, and Anjou at about an eighth of Paris prices, and bringing them here is now simply a matter of transportation.

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Costumed volunteers replicate chores just as they would have been done in the early 1900s: canning vegetables, churning butter and caring for the mules, chickens, and sheep on site.

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He says that means telling some patients to put butter on their vegetables, full cream on their pudding, sugar in their tea - a difficult message amid today's concerns over obesity.

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