Villar hired Peruvian immigrants as waiters and cooks, but he still dons an apron and fries up the popular dishes.

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But Mrs Child appeared on set with a frying pan, a portable hot-plate, an apron, a whisk and a dozen eggs, and merrily whipped up an omelette as she was being interviewed.

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Back on the stretch of freshly paved road, the team's ironmonger wiped his sweaty palms on his thick leather apron, then retrieved a lunch box from the bullock-cart piled with welding gear and scrambled up the slope to get a better view of the proceedings.

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