But the garlicky tomatillo salsa verde, flecked with mint and cilantro, is just right.

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Mix with the onions, season with a little salt and set on the table, along with the lime wedges, roasted tomatillo guacamole (see recipe below) and hot tortillas, for your guests to make into soft tacos.

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Chef and owner Johnny Hernandez addresses me through the steam rising from arrachera en salsa de tomatillo, a central Mexican speciality cooked and served in a molcajete - a mortar hewn from volcanic basalt whose design dates back to Mesoamerican times.

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Grilled up and wrapped in bacon, the Sonoran dog typically comes complete with an array of toppings that can include tomatoes, onions, shredded cheese, tomatillo salsa or chili sauce, mayo, pinto beans, and mustard or ketchup, served on a big bun or bread that can handle the load.

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