In fact one of the best Manhattans I ever had was made with now defunct Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old bourbon.

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Never the less, many Manhattans, including the one I ordered years earlier, mix bourbon and sweet vermouth in a cocktail glass, leaving out the bitters.

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But the drink taught me an important lesson: Manhattans are not to be ordered indiscriminately.

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Blue Bar's Old Fashioned cocktail is excellent, its Manhattans are made with Grand Marnier instead of bitters, and its signature drink, the Algonquin, is a refreshing mix of rye, dry vermouth and pineapple juice.

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At The Growler in the Financial District, bartender Derek Brown made us, at his suggestion, three varieties of rye Manhattans: a sweet (classic), dry, and perfect, using sweet vermouth, dry vermouth and mix of the two.

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