The Pinot Gris, now lovingly cultivated on its own, began as one such "sport" (to use the breezy scientific term) of Pinot Noir.
"Anyone who plays games with it is trying to make it into something it's not, " states David Lett of Oregon's Eyrie Vineyards, the pioneer Pinot Gris producer in the United States.
Up in chilly Oregon, where they use the name "Pinot Gris, " the grape has become the state's signature white wine.
In all the best Pinot Gris, whether produced as an Alsatian dessert wine or a crisp table wine from the foothills of the Italian Alps, the grape itself has the mojo to be the star.
In the Pacific Northwest, Pinot Gris is renowned as the dream match for the oily richness of salmon.
Though these wines are stylistically all over the map, many of the best Oregon Pinot Gris have settled happily into a niche somewhere between the full-bodied, powerful style of Alsace and the lighter wines of central Italy.
While Chardonnay grew to fame as "white Burgundy, " Pinot Gris began turning up in odd corners of the wine world under murky aliases: In France alone, Pinot Gris is also known as Tokay d'Alsace, Pinot Beurot in Burgundy and Malvoisie in the Loire.
Wherever it is made, the point is to let the essence of Pinot Gris-flavorful, juicy and seductively easy to sip-shine through.
For the adventurous, Pinot Gris and Viognier provide sublime summer drinking.
In a last-ditch effort to carry on, Allen lifted the Albatross higher where he found calmer winds, at least calm enough for him to endure another hour before finally landing on the beach at Cap Gris Nez victorious.
He will also give the Met 14 pieces by Fernand Leger and 14 others by Juan Gris, according to the museum.
Burgundy's growers have relegated Pinot Gris to the fringes--all but run it out of town, really--in favor of its oak-loving cousin, Chardonnay (a cross of Pinot Noir and something called Gouais Blanc).
Burgundy's growers have relegated Pinot Gris to the fringes-all but run it out of town, really-in favor of its oak-loving cousin, Chardonnay (a cross of Pinot Noir and something called Gouais Blanc).
The two white grapes, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris, went well with almost everything the pork, the chicken, the pasta and the salmon all fit, and the wines were rich and viscous but also minerally and clean. (I tasted both domestic and imported examples of each grape.) The only sticking point was, unsurprisingly, the steak.
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But the important piece of news here is not so much that Pinot Gris has an international identity crisis, but that, purely on its own merits, the grape has come to be cherished by wineries from New Zealand to Napa Valley.
But in places where the grape aspires to greater things, Pinot Gris nearly always develops a more substantial weight, a touch of unctuousness.
The main varietals include Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir.
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Pinot Gris (pronounced "gree") is the black sheep, or anyway, the purple-brown sheep, of one of the grape world's most noble families.
Brent Webb crossed three minutes after the restart, Danny McGuire added number four and, despite late tries from Simon Gris and Ben Harrison, Leeds hung on.
California has also managed to import some of the grape's Old World confusion factor, since the state's wineries tend to label bottles "Pinot Grigio" or "Pinot Gris" based on whim rather than wine style.
At 1, 800 acres, Pinot Gris covers almost twice as much vineyard land there as Chardonnay, much of the best in the Willamette Valley south of Portland.
After the 1994 North American Fair Trade Agreement , the Canadian government encouraged winemakers to rip out cheaper varietals and plant premium grapes for merlot, pinot gris, chardonnay and pinot noir, to better compete with US wines.
In the state where David Lett once maintained a lonely vigil there are now more than 90 wineries making Pinot Gris.
It could, that is, except that California Chardonnay is as popular as ever, and at the current pace it would take, well, let's just say a really long time before Pinot Gris' 5, 900 acres catches up to Chardonnay's 98, 000.
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