On the way out to the archipelago from Stockholm, the road winds through the radiant green landscape of a fairy-tale: forests, timber houses, rye fields, fat cows.

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For an unforgettable experience, take a night walk to the arched cave and waterfall at Natural Bridge under the western ramparts of the Springbrook plateau, which is alight with fairy-like blue-green lights given off by the millions of bioluminescent glow worms that line the cave roof and the steep earth banks along the rainforest path.

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So the shelves remained packed with gaudy shrine paraphernalia, from portraits of Christ with a halo of flashing green, yellow and blue fairy lights, to depictions of the Last Supper illuminated with almost psychedelic colours.

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