Unlike his elder brother Tatsuo, who studied prodigiously in order to pass the Japanese bar exam, Shigeta was a Tom Sawyer type.

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"When he was a kid in school he always had flunkies who did things like carry his bags for him, " Tatsuo recalls.

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Tatsuo Yamagoshi, a 36-year-old office worker, recently turned on the TV in his minivan's navigation system to entertain his children while parked outside a store near Tokyo.

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At the entrance to the bar, Kazuhide Asaba has contributed a contemporary piece from his personal collection: a futuristic black sculpture flashing red LED numbers by the artist Tatsuo Miyajima.

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"We never dreamed we'd overcome the wall around domestic growers, " says Tatsuo Horiuchi, representative director of Dole Japan and the only foreign company official advising the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries on farm law revisions.

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Since cesium binds to the sediment on the ocean floor, the radiation has likely had the biggest effect on bottom-dwelling fish and other animals though the consequences still aren't clear, said Tatsuo Aono, a specialist at Japan's National Institute of Radiological Sciences.

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