Whenever Itakeataxi home from the city center to Etiler, I pass along the otobahn through an Alphaville landscape of Trump Towers, kiddy-neon malls and Carrefour Express supermarkets.
No matter: Many hours later, I limped into Roses, hopped into ataxi to take me the last twisting miles to the restaurant, and arrived panting on the restaurant's doorstep only 90 minutes past the reservation time.