But 80% of the grapes are grown as fruit for the table grape market.

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In all the best Pinot Gris, whether produced as an Alsatian dessert wine or a crisp table wine from the foothills of the Italian Alps, the grape itself has the mojo to be the star.

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Centered in the room is a butcher-block tasting table, where you can order small shots of top-shelf wheat, rice, potato, corn and even grape vodka.

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