The man painting this picture stands 6 foot 4, has long arms flying out of an old cowboy leather vest, and curly hair fashioned in the student-Molotov-cocktail-thrower style last seen on Abby Hoffman in 1968.
The old town has some atmospheric places to stay, some decorated in the vibrant 19th-century "national renaissance" style - and the nightlife is fuelled by an irrepressible student population.