While the change is not immediately obvious outside of Yoyogi Station, the first stop past Shinjuku, concrete evidence lies a few blocks away, at Yoyogi Village.

BBC: Seeing Tokyo along the Yamanote Line

Workers yell, slice blocks of ice, haul massive bluefin tuna, spit, stop for a smoke, laugh, bone an eel and yell some more.

BBC: Tsukiji Market: Tokyo's famous seafood market

Walk the last few blocks to work or to your meeting, even if it means getting off the train a stop early.

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