Letter by letter, his ink-stained fingers hand-set type, ink the raised letters with a hand-roller, then crank heavyweight paper through an old-fashioned letterpress.

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The 15, 000-square-foot mansion, with views on the Intracoastal, has kept many of the architectural features that the flamboyant diva ordered, including hand-painted walls, a domed stained glass skylight, five fireplaces, intricate crown moldings, a velvet-covered old-style theatre with a performance stage, etc .

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Under a veil of the early-morning fog Yvon Chouinard , the 63-year-old founder of Patagonia sportswear, and I cast colorful, hand-tied salmon flies into the tannin-stained water.

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