Indeed, the Sienese place incredible demands on the national TV network, RAI, for rights to televise their festival.

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Il Palio is one of very few surviving medieval spectacles of its type in Italy, enduring thanks to the sheer tenacity of Sienese traditionalism.

BBC: Tuscany's medieval-style festival

Gulammohammed Sheikh (b. 1937) is represented by a powerful canvas, "In and Out of Story" (1984-85), that's shown alongside images of Ambrogio Lorenzetti's majestic 14th-century Sienese frescoes and a 16th-century Mughal illustration.

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Now two fascinating new books on Sienese painting, as well as a recent exhibition, tell the story of early Italian art from the Sienese viewpoint, full of colour, emotion and narrative detail.

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That seems sensible: despite lots of bad press, and a share price far below even the most pessimistic expectations a year or so ago, the Sienese bank still boasts a strong brand and loyal customers.

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