Though dishes like shrimp dumplings and egg tarts are what most Westerners think of as dim sum, many locals still enjoy the old Guangzhou style, which is served at a number of restaurants.

WSJ: The Best Dim Sum in Hong Kong | In Search Of

There would also be a soup, usually made of spinach or watercress or bamboo shoots mixed with dried shrimp, tofu, or egg drops, or even rice crust.

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The operator of Taco Bell and KFC restaurant chains has made its Pizza Hut chain into a nice restaurant in the country, deemed by some contemporary Chinese to be a great place for a first date, while introducing products such as fried dough sticks, egg tarts and shrimp burgers to suit local tastes.

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Kneeling close, you could see how deceptively alive the shell-y mud was: It harbored whole scuttling ecologies of oyster-drill snails, tiny shrimp and crabs, and floating egg cases.

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Dishes like pork and shrimp dumplings topped with a hard-boiled quail egg are so popular that diners will crowd around as soon as carts enter the dining room.

WSJ: The Best Dim Sum in Hong Kong | In Search Of