It featured, on the jacket, minimal shoulder padding, dual vents, and a graceful, three-rolled-to-two-button stance (his current favorite lapel style), and, on the pants, singlereverse pleats and one-and-a-quarter-inch-cuffed trouser legs.

NEWYORKER: Another Manhattan

"We feel strongly that American factories can offer us that shape, and a lot of it has to do with the shoulder and the construction of the jacket, " said Cuan Hanly, vice president and brand director of Jack Spade, which produces all of its suits at Southwick.

WSJ: The Hottest Fashion Label: Made in the U.S.A.

When Gates arrived for his testimony Tuesday, he wore bandages on his left arm and had his suit jacket draped over his left shoulder.

CNN: Gates says missile attacks in Pakistan will continue

His hair was mussed, suit jacket dusty and stained, ready to come apart at the shoulder seams.

NEWYORKER: Midnight in Dostoevsky

They wore some 30 different uniform styles, each with a different color piping on the jacket and cap, and decorated with elaborate gold or silver-plated wire on the shoulder board.

FORBES: Collecting Evil

As I tugged down the sides of my suit jacket and smoothed my tie, I noticed a small smudge on the glass, near my left shoulder.

NEWYORKER: Miracle Polish