Androuet, established in Paris in 1909, now has the reputation of the best cheese shop this side of La Manche.

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As the camera pans down into a back-lot souk in the first shot of this crystal-clear transfer, I was able to read, thanks to the zoom feature on DVD, the words "La Bonne Odeur" on a sign over a perfume shop.

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Expats looking to get close to this authentic vibe should live near one of the many plazas where fruit vendors set up shop and locals gather for conversations, such as the Plaza de la Aduana, the oldest in the city, or the Plaza de los Coches, known for its balconied houses with colonial arches.

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Our favourite is La Taverne du Port, which functions as local hangout, wine shop, oyster bar and truffle purveyor.

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