Over 300 tiny bars are crammed into Golden Gai, a small block of alleyways east of Shinjuku station.
The train passed Shinjuku, Yotsuya, Ochanomizu, and arrived at Tokyo Central Station, the end of the line.
Today Forever 21 operates 470 stores worldwide, including five in Japan (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Lalaport, Harajuku, and Ginza).
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After Shin-Okubo comes Shinjuku, the west side's big divider in terms of wealth and prestige, especially among younger, fashion-conscious Tokyoites.
Unlike the dozens convicted in the Aum case, the individual thought responsible for the Shinjuku attack has never been found.
At 6:30 p.m. a train from Shinjuku station, one of the busiest in Tokyo, was packed with people rushing home before a possible blackout.
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One of Isozaki's other pet hates is the Tokyo Metropolitan Office complex (Tange Kenzo, 1991), which juts aggressively skyward in the raffish Shinjuku part of town.
While the change is not immediately obvious outside of Yoyogi Station, the first stop past Shinjuku, concrete evidence lies a few blocks away, at Yoyogi Village.
Occupying the top 14 floors of the Shinjuku Park Tower, the sleek Park Hyatt Tokyo boasts commanding views and was a hotel of choice for director Sofia Coppola before the film.
In 1991, the government offices moved into a towering complex in the Shinjuku district, which in itself is one of the most striking -- and certainly controversial -- buildings in the city.
Another older Shinjuku gem is Jazz Pub Michaux, a bar whose white-bearded, kimono-and-Mongolian-cap-wearing 76-year-old owner has 4, 500 records of hard-bop and soul-jazz, including a large collection of rare vinyl by artists like Baby Face Willette and Groove Holmes.
Kissa Sakaiki, located in the Shinjuku district, pays homage to the past by requiring visitors to remove their shoes upon entrance and displaying a wooden chest filled with a vast collection of vintage matchbooks from old jazz kissa along the back wall.
The Seibu Saison group of companies, of which Seiyu is the nucleus, owned track running from the Chichibu mountains west of Tokyo to Ikebukuro and Shinjuku in the city centre although the railway and the retailer parted company in the 1970s.
The Shinjuku district is also home to some of the oldest surviving jazz kissa, including what many believe is the premier jazz club in the city, the Pit Inn, which hosts top Japanese and international acts every night and amateur performers every day.
The hyper-efficient public transit system zips people around and between cities, with more than 300 bullet train departures daily between Tokyo and Osada and nearly 2 million commuters rushing each day through the busiest station, Shinjuku, one of Tokyo's most crowded commercial areas.
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