The only producer whose marketing goes against the tradition grain is Sauza, which stresses technology.

FORBES: Mexican Invasion

"While small boutiques may want to use old production techniques, we have to operate this as a commercial crop, " says Andrew Floor, Sauza's global brand director.

FORBES: Mexican Invasion

To allay the concerns of competition authorities, Fortune, which makes office equipment and golf balls as well as Jim Beam bourbon, will take on Courvoisier, Sauza and Canadian Club whisky.

ECONOMIST: A heady cocktail | The