That'll be salt and vinegar then.

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Brits are subjected to eating rubber-packed triangular sandwiches with salt-n-vinegar crisps every day until they die (or retire, whichever is first).

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The retro theme borders on kitsch, but when the fish is splashed with vinegar, sprinkled with salt and served in a traditional twist of newspaper (well, a photocopy at least), the experience becomes pilgrimage-worthy.

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The same went for salt-baked beets: too tough, but beautifully balanced by tart red grapefruit and aged vinegar.

NEWYORKER: Acme