But the garlicky tomatillo salsa verde, flecked with mint and cilantro, is just right.

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"I think of it sort of like a salsa verde, " Ms. Louis said, referring to the Italian version of the sauce, with herbs, capers and anchovies.

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His Essex lamb "bun, " with sweetbreads and salsa verde, appeared to be a slightly larger version of the truffle, save for the extended bone of the lamb chop protruding at the top.

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