They played behind Marvin Gaye, Diana Ross, the Temptations, the Four Tops, Stevie Wonder, Smokey Robinson and all the rest, played on more monster hits than the Beatles, Elvis Presley, the Rolling Stones and the Beach Boys combined.

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In the clubhouse, in a room overlooking surf rolling in from the Tasman Sea, walls are adorned with black-and-white pictures celebrating beach marching in its heyday.

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For 96 miles we wended our way through rolling hills covered with kelly-green acacia, finally arriving at Monkey Mia, a strip of white-sand beach where bottle-nosed dolphins come every morning to beg for fish.

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