While other Kosovars formed a government-in-exile, he stayed behind, receiving foreign dignitaries and often showing them his treasured collection of rocks.

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Groups of chatty walkers make a clanging noise as they descend the metal stairs to reach Hopewell Rocks, a motley collection of sandstone outcrops on a muddy beach against a high, green-fringed cliff.

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Sadid, a middle-aged local tuk-tuk driver, took me to a collection of flat rocks covered in white stains near Crocodile Rock.

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