Rocamadour was for centuries a stop on the great pilgrim route from Paris to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

FORBES: How foie gras was my valley

The flag of Rocamadour flew over the battle of Navas de Tolosa, when the Moors were routed by the army of Alfonso VIII of Castile.

FORBES: How foie gras was my valley

Today Rocamadour is the usual crush of tourist buses.

FORBES: How foie gras was my valley

But you can steal away from all that and refresh yourself in the cool and dark of the chapel beneath the Black Madonna and the lamps hung there by Crusaders and the bell that was said to ring miraculously every time storm-tossed sailors were saved by the Virgin of Rocamadour.

FORBES: How foie gras was my valley