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But the Japanese, who had beaten us there, encouraged us from the sprawling front porch and the rifugio's signature fontina polenta awaited.
WSJ: Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc
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On day seven we crossed into Italy, headed to the Rifugio Elisabetta, an inn perched beneath two glaciers overlooking a valley.
WSJ: Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc
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Perched at the first midstation on the Punta Helbronner cable car at a heady height of 2, 173 metres, Rifugio Pavillon is a traditional mountain refuge with a deckchairlined terrace.
BBC: Mini guide to Valle d��Aosta, Italy
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The unmanned Rifugio Manzini hut, a couple of hundred metres down the mountainside and built out of the rough and beautiful local stone, is slightly more sheltered but conditions are almost as spartan.
BBC: Italy��s wilderness, far from the madding crowds