At Perilla, where the cuisine tends to skew toward Italian-American and Eastern European influences, I serve a spaghettini with crab gravy studded with crushed red chili flakes, fennel seed and Thai basil.

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Add to the mix Thai chilies, for heat (if you can't find Thai chilies, the more ubiquitous red chili sauce found in Asian markets makes a fine substitute), and a moderate amount of sugar, for balance, and you have a zippy vinaigrette that dresses a beautiful salad of shallots, mint, cilantro, scallions and toasted rice.

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The Thai drink is called Krating Daeng (translation: "red water buffalo").

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KaoSarn, a family-run Thai restaurant, is consistently packed with diners who come hungry for its sweet red prawn curry and spiced roast chicken served with sticky rice steamed in a banana leaf.

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