This fabulous value starts things off hints of tobacco and earth, then things start to warm up with notes of bright red raspberry and cherry fruit.

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Most rock and pop fans should be able to find something they like in Cherry Red's roster of releases, given the sheer breadth of what they put out.

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The amenities, in addition to the doggie spa, include a walking area ankle deep in sawdust and festooned with cherry red plastic fire hydrants (hence the odiferousness of the subterranean space), personal trainers, a doggie masseuse and even a pet psychic.

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An otherwise lovely 2009 Stefano Mancinelli Lacrima de Morro, a red wine from the Marche, had delicious flavors of earth and sour cherry and a snappy acidity, but its floral aromas were so pronounced it would be like pairing a plate of pasta with a bottle of my grandmother's perfume.

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The atomic red pseudo-fruit at the bottom of that glass was both the literal and proverbial opposite of a cherry on top.

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