Floating serenely in the Aegean Sea some 250 miles from the capital, Bozcaada constitutes a momentary pause in the clamour of modern life: a quiet, bucolic place of hidden beaches, cobbled alleys, whitewashed townhouses and old-timers playing backgammon on street corners.

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The noise and dirt of the cars whizzing past might be a little unbecoming, but the Colosseum is not a building to be hidden away in a quiet corner.

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