Not only is Oahu's largest temple located nearby at Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau State Monument, but so are the archeological remains of some 78 ancient religious sites and shrines, as well as fishponds, and a waterfall and pool where you can swim.

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The restaurant is packed every day with locals reading the newspaper, drinking astonishingly strong pu'er tea and eating dishes heavy with roasted, fatty meats.

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The miracle that there is a local population to celebrate here at all becomes clear from the top of Maunga Pu.

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