The Pigato grape grown in Liguria has long been one of my favorites.

WSJ: The Unique Charms of 'Miscellaneous Wines' | On Wine by Lettie Teague

It's known as Rolle in Provence, Pigato in Liguria and Favorita in Piedmont, and there are dozens of other names as well.

WSJ: Vermentino, the Wine of Yachts and Beaches | Lettie Teague on Wine

From north to south, the country is thickly planted with consonant-rich grapes like Pecorino, Asprinio, Fiano, Pigato, Catarratto and Grillo, to name just a (very) few.

WSJ: The Unique Charms of 'Miscellaneous Wines' | On Wine by Lettie Teague

From Alsace Sylvaner to Altesse from Savoy, Arneis in Piedmont, Scheurebe from Germany and Pigato in Liguria (and more), I found characterful wines that were as distinctive as they were well-priced.

WSJ: The Unique Charms of 'Miscellaneous Wines' | On Wine by Lettie Teague

Though it's recently been named a clonal cousin of Vermentino a far more famous grape a good Pigato from a top producer like Bruna or Terre Bianche can be even more nuanced, with aromas of almonds and citrus.

WSJ: The Unique Charms of 'Miscellaneous Wines' | On Wine by Lettie Teague