Amid the dozens of private art galleries on Insadong street you will find tiny craft shops bursting with creativity (check out the four-storey Ssamzie complex) - look for pale green celadon vases, pen-and-ink drawings and calligraphy, and world-class stitching at Kukjae Embroidery.

BBC: A perfect day in Seoul

The title pages and chapter-heads featured the swirling calligraphy of Professor Lal himself, done with a Sheaffer fountain pen.

ECONOMIST: P. Lal