It fits around the head like a headpiece with the pear-shaped diamonds slightly raised and sparkling above her head.

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The head of the players union, with whom Dave Pear and other retirees have been - I think the fair word to use is battling - is Gene Upshaw, the former All Pro and Hall of Fame offensive lineman for the Oakland Raiders.

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For dessert, skip the beignets oily delivery systems for lemon-bright custard and the milk-chocolate mousse dome and head straight for the fragrant comforts of franzipan cake, served with a spiced poached pear and caramel ice cream.

NEWYORKER: Alison Eighteen