Kale the overexposed vegetable of the moment is given new life in a salad with squash and apple, dressed in miso-ponzu and panko.

NEWYORKER: Talde

The crisp baby squid, mind you this is not fried calamari, but a delicate tastier version, is dusted with panko for a lighter touch and more ocean flavor.

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Yakitori skewers of chicken skin and (especially) tail are succulent little delivery devices for fat. (Yakitori okra is worth trying, too.) Several dishes feature fantastically tender pork cutlet under a perfectly golden shell of panko bread crumbs.

NEWYORKER: Ootoya