Canadian owners Marla and Linda have turned the old Leaky Palapa in Xcalak into a dining sensation.

BBC: Mini guide to the Yucat��n Peninsula, Mexico

The 11 rooms in the original buildings have a history-steeped charm, but I was more taken with the four Maya cottages, which have mosquito-netted swinging beds under palapa roofs, open-air bathrooms, and gracefully simple decor.

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