The salty olives balance the sweetness, and the oven-roasted tomatoes inject a little sophistication into this easy-to-prepare party dish.

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At Pakhuis, tucking in to oven-roasted Bresse chicken beneath industrial trusses felt like picnicking in the machine room of the Eiffel Tower.

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Cooked on the grill and seasoned with lime juice and oregano, the meat acquires a rich smoky flavor that's quite different from that of the oven-roasted variety.

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Dark timber floors, blue-cushioned chairs, high ceilings and glass panels provide comfortable environs for sampling dishes like coconut-crusted prawns with oven-roasted banana, or stuffed spatchcock in saffron cream.

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Two days later: Oven-Roasted Tri-Tip with Southwestern Spice Rub.

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Just down the block is Ford's Filling Station (www.fordsfillingstation.net), a gastropub run by the crafty chef Ben Ford, who prefers whole pig feasts and oven-roasted octopus to fedoras and bullwhips (yep, his dad is Harrison).

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Tuck the oven-roasted tomatoes among the chicken pieces.

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Anyway, here's what Bill made for dinner one week after bringing home his cookbook, having waited until an afternoon when I was gone so that he could conduct a stealth sortie into the kitchen: Oven-Roasted Tri-Tip.

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You might even forgo the salad: eating cherries after they have been roasted for five minutes or so in a 400-degree oven might be the best way to enjoy them.

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The whole roasted branzino, one of three dishes from the wood-burning oven, was salt-spangled on the outside and delicate inside, its fragrance enhanced by lemony yogurt and a brown-butter zabaglione.

NEWYORKER: Perla