Wesley Brumback rhapsodizes about planting 350 bare-root orange trees in two days, seeing bald eagles dive for fish in the grove's reservoirs and watching trailers roll out with his fruit.

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Although the short cocktail menu showcases unusual drinks like the Nice Legs -- made with gin, Barolo Chinato (an Italian digestive), Gentian (a bitter root) and orange peel -- many patrons will order a classic like an Old-Fashioned (bourbon whiskey, sugar, Angostura bitters, club soda and lemon peel) or leave their choice in the hands of the bartender.

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By 10am each day the Djemaa sets the scene, with canopied orange-juice carts and apothecaries who prescribe ostrich eggs for strength and walnut root for social anxiety.

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