Then I had a chat with Thomas Pastuszak, wine director at New York's Nomad restaurant, who said the best match wasn't between wine and food at all but between wine and diner.
The gilded NoMad, drawing design inspiration from its 1905 Beaux-Arts structure and designer Jacques Garcia's former Paris apartment, boasts a Parisian-style restaurant flowing into the lobby of the hotel and furniture modeled after French originals.