For the main course spiced cod with curried vegetables and the curried monkfish are winners.

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GLP-1 was discovered in monkfish in the 1970s by a Harvard professor named Joel Habener.

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So Assouline switched gears, believing he could market monkfish better than Milli Vanilli.

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In the late 1970s Harvard Medical School researcher Joel Habener serendipitously discovered a hormone in monkfish called GLP-1 (glucagon-like peptide).

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There is a premium for line-caught fish: hake, monkfish, tuna.

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For this Seafood Watch gives monkfish its lowest, "red" rating.

WSJ: Guidelines for Eating Sustainable Seafood

They stand on their feet for long hours in the cold, sharpening fillet knives and slicing up and de-boning the monkfish, cod and halibut that the fishing boats bring in.

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The newly opened Lonesome Dove Western Bistro , in Manhattan's Flatiron District, also serves bison marrow "butter" on "camp bread, " kangaroo carpaccio nachos and lobster bacon served as an accompaniment to seared monkfish.

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While guides from Seafood Watch and the Blue Ocean Institute both say monkfish populations are sufficient to continue harvesting at current rates, each group takes issue with the method used to catch the warty, brown bottom-feeder.

WSJ: Guidelines for Eating Sustainable Seafood

The habitat impact of catching monkfish is "acceptable, " says Laurel Bryant, director of external affairs at National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's Fisheries Service, which counts and regulates how much fish is caught in the U.S. and maintains its own extensive seafood-buying guide called FishWatch.

WSJ: Guidelines for Eating Sustainable Seafood