It was always the same: a great wedge of papaya with limes, a crisp thin omelette with green chilis mixed in, two slices of inch-thick white-bread toast, a dollop of red jelly and of margarine, and a pot of coffee with milk.

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To make it, fresh milk from grass or hay-fed cows within a 20km radius is poured raw into a copper pot and heated until it begins to curdle.

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