Villagers build a midsummer pole, which is decorated with flowers and colourful ribbons, dance and, at midnight, bonfires are lit.

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We saw cradles beside dance floors, kids tearing around restaurants at midnight.

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The huge cast of Midnight's Children includes Shabana Azmi, Anupam Kher, Seema Biswas, Rahul Bose, Charles Dance, Shriya Saran and Shahana Goswami, besides newcomer Satya Bhabha as Saleem Sinai and southern Indian star Siddharth as Shiva.

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They play tricks and dance to the accompaniment of the Baroque-era music of the Jesuit missions, then around midnight fireworks pop from the top of their wide-brimmed hats, symbolizing the gift of light and vision to live respectfully.

UNESCO: Intangible Cultural Heritage