Amid the astonishing bustle in this ancient metropolis, where well-heeled bottle-blondes with cigarettes, headscarved women and mustachioed men holding worry beads weave through winding streets choked with traffic, that is clear.

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Bedouin men shear the sheep, camels and goats, and women gather in small groups to spin and weave, exchanging family news and occasionally chanting and reciting poetry.

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During the dry season, many of the men are employed by the national park, manning the boats used for snorkelling trips, and the women weave mats and baskets from pandanus leaves to sell to the groups of tourists who visit their beach every day.

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