Toast the fennel seeds in a small skillet over medium heat just until they start to change color.

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For reasons unclear to modern science, Pinot Gris differentiates itself by changing a different color (somewhere between pale brown and medium purple) when ripening side by side with Pinot Noir, and also develops its own distinctive flavor and texture.

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Kaufman's book is a marvel of concision, with a handy color-coding system (red for "medium-size land birds") and a one-page index on the back page.

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Put the pan over medium heat and cook staying close by until the sugar turns a deep caramel color.

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