We started with a "crab meat" and sweet corn thick soup.

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Hanjeongsik is a banquet of fish, meat, lettuce wraps, tofu soup and steamed egg, served with side dishes of kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage), acorn jelly, dried anchovies and boiled peanuts.

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If meat is not available, says one Friday prayer leader, people should make do with traditional egg soup.

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In Joe's world, meat was still for Sundays -- and Mondays, when the mamma made the leftover scraps into stew or soup.

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The front room of the shop had been filled with the smell of meat, and my grandfather had stood and looked around at the hams and sausages hanging from the rafters, soup bones and square bacon slabs in the cold counter window, the skinned red lamb with its sharp little teeth lying on the block while Luka cleaved the bone of the leg away.

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